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#valentine #cruffin another batch this time gruyere and ham And almond yuzu matcha it’s a non diet day so we are having Valentine dinner tonight #food
#lovejapan #日本大好き

The Joys of Japan!


Where better place to find yourself on a stop-over or longer than the most exiting city in the world! Tokyo,a food lovers dream.

There are about 5000 restaurants in London 15000 in New York but Tokyo boasts 88000 and counting.

A nation obsessed by food, every type of cuisine can be found here some of the best Italian dining is to be had in Tokyo cooked by Japanese chefs. There has been a long history of Japanese chefs working in Michelin restaurants in France and returning to open their own.

The French and British super chefs are making inroads into Tokyo, Robluchon has his second Artelier here ,Peirre Gaginare has opened recently , Gordon Ramsey has made a showing with two restaurants at the Conrad hotel and Alain Ducasse has open Beige.

Here can be found hotels in abundance from capsule to the highest in luxury, service is exemplary and tipping is definitely frowned upon.

A subway system that is efficient clean and vast, sinjuku station moves over 2 million people a day.

It is quite interesting to be listening to music on you ipod, something serene, find a spot and just watch the mass of rushing humanity quite a ethereal experience.


Tokyo known for the stratospheric price of its real estate, deals with it the same way as new York they build high, and as for hotel rooms they tend to be smaller than their European counterparts none the less accommodation can be reasonable you could stay close to the Ginza and within walking distance tsukiji market for about 8000 yen in a business hotel not big on glamour but more than adequate perhaps a family run ryokan in the old part of town near ……….. temple with a roof top ofuro (bath) with views over the roofs and temples of  Tokyo .

If you would like to relive moments of lost in translation the Park Hyatt would be your destination, late at night with a scotch sat at the bar overlooking the sea of neon .

The love hotels of Tokyo for those who like a room with a difference, to explain the Japanese live in close proximity to each other many living with their parents or they are just dating and there is nowhere for privacy so you can rent a room by the hour some with wild themes spacecraft, funfairs vibrating beds Jacuzzis these are seldom used overnight so turning up late and getting a cheap room is always possible.

And finally something so Japanese the capsule hotel cheap but not for the claustrophobic they have a communal washing facility much like an onsen but these hotels are single sex generally and are geared to the salary man who is usually too drunk or too late to get home after a night out with his fellow workers

Places to see

Kannon temple in Asakusa one of the most visited in the city boasts an avenue of shops leading down to the temple preceded by an enormous red lantern, this area is what is called shitamatchi or the area under the castle this would have been where the trades people of old Tokyo would have lived and worked close by the castle producing goods and services for those that could afford.

It still retains its charm and some old buildings .

There is even an old 1950 funfair open everyday nostalgia in a city where it is disappearing fast.

Kappaboshi a short walk from tawaramatchi station on toei asakusa line is a street lined with catering shops you can buy anything from handmade knives to custon noren a sushi chef’s jacket or plastic food.

From the local pier you can take a spacecraft like ferry that will take you down the river to odiba the reclaimed island in Tokyo harbour.

A smaller version of the statue of liberty awaits along with modernist building notably fuji tv with its van der graph generator style viewing tower, here you will also find themed bars and restaurants gift shops for the manga generation, Tokyo bigsite a conference and exhibition hall hosting many events all year round ,the  monorail leaves here back into the city over the rainbow bridge lit up at night this bridge takes road traffic and trains on different levels and deposits you at Shimbashi station where just behind  is the holy grail for those with a sweet tooth Ogowaken a Japanese patisserie baking in the French style famous for their rasinwich a buttery almond topped biscuit sandwich filled with air light buttercrean and enormous raisins steeped in rum about £ 5.00 a box so popular that they sometimes run out, they also have a tea coffee shop and you can enjoy their cakes here too.

Perhaps something more substantial for lunch, located in the same building is a soba shop home made soba a good selection of sake all of the best standard and freshness.


The Japanese a a tradition going back centuries of the finest crafts and artworks something that continues to this day it can be seen for free in the specialist shops featuring wedding kimono of the very finest hand woven cloth. If you look hard some quite extraordinary contemporary designs are available but not for sale to the casual tourist as they can cost into the millions of yen, the same can be said of pottery an old art originally imported from Korea and changed over the centuries to the Japanese way there are mountains of ceramics art pieces and tableware available cheaply and of great quality, a wonderful but heavy gift if you get carried away  .

Modern art lives and flourishes here and one of the best places is a day out on its own, the Mori art museum on the 53 rd floor of the Mori building in Roppongi hills is the jewel in the crown always there seems to be great exhibitions on here and so much more there is a viewing platform 360 deg views of Tokyo day and night ,and for the kids or you Asimo Hondas amazing walking dancing running bipedal robot lives  and entertains here.

Art on the streets is brought by the younger generation in fashion form ,what you see here filters down to Europe in some form or another Tokyo can be extreme with its fashion the only time in their lives when rebellion is ok before filtering back into the homogeneous society .


All tastes are catered for here and the standards are high there are food floors in the department stores whole city blocks given over to a myriad of small specialist retailers from chocolate to chunko nabe.

The finest products from all over the world, chateau Lafitte jostling for position with the finest sake, Scottish wild smoked salmon or the melt in the mouth Toro fatty tuna.

It all harks back to the past the cries of the shop assistants ring out over the marble halls decked with chandeliers all trying to get your custom ,apart from the environment nothing has changed over time.

People eat here it’s the national pastime ,beer not sake is the beverage of choice well represented by Asahi kirin and many others .

If your first taste of sushi was  a supermarket package of over chilled densely packed rice topped with a sliver of not so fresh fish underpinned buy fiery virulent green wasabi,

You are in for a major shock its not like that at all, kaiten sushi can be excellent but due to the price you will still get the powdered wasabi which is in fact colored horseradish and bears only a passing resemblance to the real thing which is somewhat more subtle and refined, the fish will be a little thinner than bespoke sushi but very good value.

The real deal does not always come cheap but it is an experience you will savor forever,

After waiting for your seat finally you get a place at the counter ,sushi chefs busy themselves  with the constant flow of orders from the seated diners placing perfectly crafted pieces of rice and fish directly onto to lacquered surface piling beside home made pickled ginger originally there as aid against bacteria along with the vinigared rice originally as a preservative it would be stuffed into fish to help its longevity.

The rice is at room temperature, topped with your chosen fish or shell fish which has been smeared on the underside with hand grated wasabi the topping is cold but not too chilled allowing all the delicate flavours and texture to be at its best this is dipped into shoyou (soy sauce) much more delicate and refined that what we generally find in the uk, some sushi shops will soften the sauce with dashi (kelp and bonito stock) or paint the fish ready for eating and not offer shoyu.

It is not always necessary to use chopsticks using ones hands is quite acceptable you will have been presented with a hot towel at the beginning of the meal or in the summer a chilled one just wipe you hands on this.

The variety of fish and shell fish is enormous and seasonal, variation in price is usually upwards although some bargains are to be had if you like oily fish Iwashi or sardine is fantastic small and bright it is filleted and the membrane is removed leaving a silverery surface it is topped with finely grated ginger and shredded neggi (spring onion).

The undisputed favorite of the Japanese is Toro the fatty belly of tuna meltingly delicious,  there is nothing to compare and should be tried at least once at source in a lifetime.

Where to find the best

Tsukiji market from 5am expect queues  at the weekend my favorite and now it seems everybody else’s is Sushi Dai Identified by the green noren and Daiwa Sushi identified by its brown on white noren and big queues I have tried them all and these still reign supreme  the best in Tsukiji the best in the world…?

Sushi Bun still excellent not so busy but well established, the attached streets feature a large market labyrinth in style featuring many sushi shops including a 24 hour establishment so if you are only here briefly there is no excuse not to!

Even when leaving Tokyo the airport comes up trumps with a sushi shop which is excellent and reasonable and an oasis of calm in a busy airport.

Drinking Sake

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